I renewed a childhood interest this year for personal and internet reasons. However, I was basically starting from scratch, and the research that was necessary before I could get started was extensive.

The following is a condensation of what I learned. I'm presenting it in the hope of leveling the learning curve for others who are interested in starting fishing.

Initially, this web site will be oriented to help the beginner. This is no small task; the initial foray into fishing can be a daunting experience. Hopefully, this web site will make your introduction to fishing easier.

Eventually my goal is to provide help for anglers at all levels of experience.

Categories of Fishing

Fishing categories is limited only by one's imagination. There is bowfishing, and I even heard a yarn about fishing by dangling fingers in the water, then grabbing curious catfish by hand.

However, in any endeavor, it always best to set specific goals. When fishing, it is better to target your field in terms of where and what you are planning to catch.

In general, recreational fishing can be divided into freshwater lake, freshwater river or flyfishing, and saltwater. Again, there are no rules; you can flyfish in saltwater. But this web site will use these categories for general organizational purposes.

The main idea here is to think about what you would like to do, and what is available. Then narrow down your choices to the type of fishing and even specific fish that you want to catch. Your decisions will make the rest of the learning experience much easier.

Tackle

Buying tackle is the first major obstacle when starting out. The enormous variety of options makes decision making difficult.

Moreover, while there are many books and web sites that describe tackle, none explain the cost-benefit analysis that is crucial to the buying decision, and which has been my major quandary in buying equipment.

For example, rods and reels can range from $20 to $200 each. It is always better to buy quality in anything. But what is the performance benefit versus cost of premium fishing gear? This is the important question, yet I have not even seen an attempt at an answer elsewhere. Fortunately, I will provide answers on this web site.

Reels

There are two main types of reels: baitcasting and spinning. The difference is that the spool that holds the line spins like a spool of thread on baitcasting reels, while the spool on spinning reels is stationary. Spinning reels, therefore, do not spin. (Why are they called spinning? I don't know, but it reminds me of a George Carlin joke, "Why do we drive on parkways and park on driveways?")

A main goal of the reel is to keep the line straight and untangled. Another goal is to allow accurate and distant casting. Each reel type has tradeoffs in accomplishing these goals.

The advantages of baitcasting reels are ease of line release--casting distance--and line management. That is, the reels have a leveler that wraps the line around the entire length of the spool and generally prevents the line from getting twisted.

The enemy of baitcasting reels is "backlash", which occurs when excess line pours off the spool when the bait hits the water. Baitcasting reels usually have braking mechanisms to help prevent backlash, but the mechanism itself can be a problem by reducing the casting distance.

The best braking mechanism for the baitcasting reel is a smart thumb on the spool. However, it takes some practice and effort to develop a "smart thumb".

Spinning reels (reels that don't spin) serve to minimize the backlash problem by being more parsimonious in the speed and rate of releasing the line. They are thus considered easier to use. The trade-off is that casting distance is restricted and the line can get twisted.

However, I will emphatically point out that though spinning reels have the reputation of being easier to use, they are not easy to use. The line wrapped around the spinning wheel can easily explode off the reel unless the caster is very careful, and huge line snares are always possible. I have had my share already.

A third type of reel attempts to solve the problems of the other two, although some would say it incorporates the disadvantages of the others. It is called a spincasting reel, which is an enclosed spinning reel with a thumb button to control line release.

The advantage of the spincasting reel is ease of use, but there are tradeoffs such as reduced casting distance. One disadvantage is that line snarls, or more important, potential line snarls cannot be seen inside the case.

The spincasting reel is targeted toward those who have neither the time nor patience to master the other reel types. Thus, I haven't tried one yet. However, this does not imply that there are not good quality spincasting reels available, or that the reel would not be an excellent choice for many situations.

All reels serve to retrieve the line, but the rate of line retrieval per one turn of the handle can be varied by gearing in the reel. The gearing ratio is thus an important factor in the reel, but it is more important in advanced fishing situations where the angler needs to carefully match the rate of retrieve with the bait.

A crucial feature of any reel is the "drag" mechanism, which is the ability of the reel to release line when the fish is fighting and thus prevent the line from braking. The quality and ease of adjusting the drag mechanism is an important component of a reel.

Rods

Rods are evaluated in terms of length, material, action, and line. Most rods are made of graphite so there is not much choice there.

The length of rods recommended for freshwater lake fishing are in the 6' to 7' range. Shorter or longer rods are used based in other categories of fishing. Saltwater surf rods are typically 8', while some flyfishing rods may be 6' or less for situations where casting room is limited.

There are two types of action for rods, and this can get confusing. One type, referred to as light, medium, or heavy, refers to the line weight needed to balance the rod.

The other action, referred to as fast, medium, or slow, refers to the ability of the rod to straighten and become still. Fast action rods straighten in a hurry, whereas slow action rods will "wobble" longer.

The trade-off is that light, slow action rods have more whip to cast light line and bait for distance, while heavy, fast rods have the power to launch heavy line and bait the maximum distance.

Rods are designed to match with specific reels. Spinning rods seat the reel underneath the handle, and have larger guides to accommodate the additional arc of the line coming off the reel. Baitcasting rods seat the reel on top of the handle, and are generally thicker.

Guides and guide materials are important on rods as the guides wear and create heat from friction that can create wear on the line. Thus, a feature of premium rods is superior guide material such as stainless steel or titanium.

As alluded to when discussing action, rods are rated for line sizes. The general idea is to buy a rod and reel that are rated for the same line and bait size or weight.

Line

Modern lines are synthetics, as opposed to previously used natural materials such as cotton or silk. The consensus is to use monofilament line for most fishing. Braided nylon and dacron are available for specialized situations.

Line is rated based on strength. A 20 lb. line is stronger than a 10 lb. line, and is used to catch heavier fish. But a 20 lb. line may also be more obtrusive when trying to catch some fish, so it is not always just a matter of buying the strongest line.

Rods and reels are rated for the strength of line, so the general idea is to buy line that is consistent with the rod and reel.

Of most importance, higher-priced line has been manufactured for greater limpness and elasticity, meaning they wrap on the spool better and are less likely to break.

Line is the first place for splurging money. My recommendation is to always spend more to buy the best line available.

Lures

Here is where the fun part begins. I don't remember using lures as a child. I do remember cheese and salmon eggs on a hook.

But now there is an infinite variety of artificial lures available, and wonder of wonders, these things actually work. The trick is to match color, weight, size, and type to fishing conditions and fish.

Hooks, Floats, Weights, Snaps, Swivels, Leaders

I bought a package of hooks thinking that they would obviously be necessary for fishing, but that is not true. The lures have hooks, and even some plastic worm packages come with hooks.

Floats are mainly used in combination with weights in order to use live bait. I'll discuss more on live bait in the future.

Many lures will sink to the bottom from their own weight, but weights are necessary in some situations to hold bait under the water. A good idea is to start off by buying a box or package with an assortment of different weight sizes. Chances are that eventually they will all come in handy.

Snaps are used at the end of the fishing line to make changing lures easier. However, snaps have been criticized as detrimental to fishing as they are a possible point of failure. Swivels are intended to prevent line twist, but they have the same disadvantage as snaps.

Leaders are a special purpose short piece of line that connects the main line with the bait. Leaders are necessary in flyfishing in order to efficiently lay the bait on the water.

Leaders in freshwater fishing can be used for many reasons, but mainly to avoid damage to the main line. Some leaders are made of wire because they supposedly run true through water and collect less weeds.

Leaders can be useful in specialized situations, but are not recommended for general purpose fresh water fishing. Yet again, they are discouraged for the same reason as snaps and swivels.

Miscellaneous Tackle

At a minimum it is necessary to have pliers, needle nose pliers, insect repellant, and a tackle box to carry the equipment and fishing license.

Most important, I would recommend a good first aid kit. I haven't hooked myself yet, but it is only a matter of time.

Rigs

Bait combinations are often referred to as rigs. For example, one rig that is often mentioned is the Carolina Rig, which consists of a 1/2 to 1 oz. sinker, a plastic bead on the main line below the sinker that will connect with the sinker to make noise, a swivel on the main line to prevent line twist, a leader line, and the lure, usually a soft plastic worm with hook.

Another popular rig style is the "Texas Rig" which consists of a bullet sinker, and a plastic worm on a hook.

With all rigs, however, there are no rules so experimentation and variations are encouraged.

Knots

Fishing involves fishing line, which ultimately has to be attached to something with knots, so deal with it and be prepared to tie a few. Actually, I have learned to tie just two thus far: the clinch knot which I use to tie the line to the lures, and the reel knot which is used to tie line to the reel.

The reel knot is simple. Just tie an overhand knot at the end of the line and pull it tight, wrap the line around the spool and tie another overhand knot around the main line, pull that knot tight, then pull on the main line until the knots converge and tighten. Finally, trim the excess line.

Tying lines to lures is more complicated. My experience is that you have to be very careful and precise in tying the knot. Just coming close will not hold the knot. Also, always give the knot a stiff test.

Here is how I tie the "Percell" Clinch Knot to a lure:

Feed the line through the eyehole and pull around behind the line to form a loop. Leave plenty of extra line for the loop. Hold the lure in the left hand and grab the point where the loop crosses the main line with the right hand. Then rotate the lure toward you five times. It doesn't have to be exactly five times, but shouldn't be less or many more. Feed the end through the loop closest to the lure.

Feed the end back toward you through the loop around the windings. Grab the end and the main line and pull the knot tight.

Test the knot by pulling on the line hard. Don't wait for the fish to test it for you. Finally, clip off the excess. With practice, this knot can be tied reasonably quickly.

Presentation

Presentation is a generic term that covers the whole of presenting the bait. Two items that should be of special interest regarding presentation for the starting fisherman are depth and retrieval method.

By depth, I'm referring to the intended destination of the bait. Some lures are intended to float on the surface, while others are intended to drop to the bottom. The choice of course depends on where you think the fish will be, and it can depend on weather conditions.

There are a variety of retrieval methods. Aside from the obvious fast or slow, one is referred to as "jigging" in which the bait is worked up and down.

A basic slow retrieve is a good way to start, but don't hesitate to experiment.

Setting the Hook

I remember jokes about getting a nibble. It turns out that knowing when to jerk on the line is serious business. You can pull too early or too late, and much depends on what type of bait you are using. Also, you have to careful about slack. That is, too much of it is detrimental to hook setting.

Finding Fish

My experience indicates that catching fish is rather easy, the problem is finding them. One of the key concepts here is structure, which is any abrupt or unusual change in elevation. Game fish tend to hide out. The idea is to find drop-offs, trees, ridges, or any other attractive hideout for fish.

Of course, you often can't see where structure is, so the main idea is to experiment. However, topographic maps are available on some lakes. As usual, check the internet, especially state government fish or game department sites.

Weather and season are major determinants of where fish locate. For example, supposedly fish seek cover and not food during a cold front. The barometric pressure is thought to have a major impact on fishing conditions.

Lets Get Started

There was no end to the research I wanted to do before starting, but at some point you have do something. I wrote notes on 3x5 cards and marched down to the local Galyans sporting goods store.

Again, it is always best to buy quality, but my Timex watch suits my need just as well as a Rolex would. Not knowing the cost benefit ratio of fishing equipment, I set as a goal to shoot for the middle of the price spectrum. I would not buy cheap, but will save the more expensive gear for later.

I picked out a 7' medium power, fast action graphite St. Croix rod (model PS70MF) which is rated for 6-12 lb. line and 1/4 to 5/8 oz. bait. The rod was selling for $89.99.

I asked the salesman about reels, and he asked, "How much do you want to spend?" That just may sum up buying anything.

I told him that I was willing to spend $100. I wish I had a better answer, but I'm just starting. He recommended a Shimano 2000FH Symetre spinning reel. It has three stainless steel ball bearings and one roller bearing. It is rated at 6-170 (170 yards of 6 lb. line), 8-120, and 10-100. The price was $84.99. It looked like a quality product, so I bought it without much questioning.

The salesman offered to load the line on the reel, but I declined since I wanted to learn how to do it myself. It turned out to not be a big deal. Just tie the line around the spool using a reel knot and start winding. Moreover, since some stores have a machine that can wind the line tightly around the spool, it would be best to accept if anyone offers to load the spool for you.

I bought a few other items such as a tackle box, pliers, needle nose pliers, and Stren fishing line. Within a day or so I augmented my cache with a first aid kit, insect repellant, even clean wipes for after I handle all those huge slimy fish I was going to catch.

I also bought a few of those all important lures. It wasn't rocket science, I just picked out a few. If they did't work, I would still learn something. I'm sure there are an infinite variety that will succeed, but just for the record, I bought a couple of Rapala plugs or crankbaits, which are just plastic fish with treble hooks attached. It turned out that these were successful.

Finally, To Catch a Fish

I went to a local small lake. Absolutely no one was around so I could relax and not worry that a reporter would snap a picture of me embarrassing myself and put it on the front page. My goal was just to practice with the spinning reel. I tied on a lure and went to work.

The spinning reel works by opening the bail that surrounds the spool, holding and guiding the line on the cast, then closing the bail and turning the handle for the retrieve.

It wasn't easy. The line would explode off the reel every time I lowered the bail. The key was to be extremely careful handling the line. I had to hold it in such a way as to keep it tight on the reel yet ready to release easily, which are conflicting goals. It took some practice. Fishing is a great way to learn patience, something I have little of.

Then after the cast, I had to flip the bail down. Again, this was not easy. And it was not clear to me how the bail worked when closing. I was concerned that it was not winding the line properly.

Eventually, casting became easier. I was very careful in holding the line when opening the bail. After the cast, I would simply close the bail without analyzing how it works. It turns out that the bail works pretty well in picking up the line without much analysis.

Interestingly, I had no real goal of catching any fish. I didn't know if there were any fish in the lake, or if the lure would work. But amazingly, a couple of pan fish bit the bait and I reeled them in. I was a success! All the research and hard work practicing with the reel was worth it.

Back For More

I was now eager to advance to the baitcasting reel. Back at Galyans, I bought a Berkley Classic Series Lightning Rod IM7 graphite LRCC601MH 6' Med HVY Casting lure 3/8-3/4 oz, Trilene 10-25 lb test line. The price was $49.99. I chose the rod because it looked like a stout rod on which I could handle a heavy bass.

I also purchased the salesman's recommended reel, a Quantum IR410CX selling for $84.99. As I was buying rod and reel, the salesman loaded the line on the reel for free.

I began practicing at a local pond with a weight at the end. I just wanted to get proficient in using the baitcasting reel.

It was a disaster. It was me against the line and the line won, the first few battles anyway. I quickly learned to defeat backlash-by casting about ten inches.

As my thumb smartened up on the spool, I could cast, but not very far. I realized that the problem was the braking mechanism on the Quantum reel. It was working too well.

I read the reel owner's manual. Backlash and braking were documented. For example:

"Problem: Backlash when casting. Magnetic cast control is not adjusted properly. "Increase the magnetic cast control to maximum..."

Centrifugal cast control is not adjusted properly. Remove spool and 'turn on' (see owner's manual) all of the brake weights. Then turn one at a time to the off position until the desired spool braking is obtained."

In my case, I needed to reduce the magnetic cast control. But the manual didn't give any details on setting the magnetic cast control to maximum.

As for the centrifugal cast control, the reference to "see owner's manual" was interesting, especially since I was reading the owner's manual. Most aggravating of all, there were no diagrams to accompany the above remedies. I was willing to take the thing apart, but not without explicit diagrams that could give me a clue.

The point is that the owner's manual was sadly deficient in explaining and diagramming how to adjust the braking. I had no choice but to return the reel. I believe this Quantum reel was of sound quality, but came with a sorely deficient owner's manual. I guess the company expects that anyone buying a Quantum already knows how to take it apart and make adjustments.

I went looking for a reel at Wal-Mart. Since I'm now an expert on reels, I would look for a good buy. Plus, this time I knew what I was looking for: a baitcasting reel with a quality owner's manual.

I selected a Shakespeare Medalist BC4400, with star drag adjustment, rated at 10-140, for medium freshwater and light saltwater. It listed at $54.96.

The owner's manual wasn't great, but it was far better than the others. I was concerned about braking but again, I bought it if for no other reason than to reward the company for at least attempting to include a decent owner's manual.

Fishing for Real

I took my spinning and baitcasting gear to Lake Brittle in Virginia. I rented a boat and went searching for some serious bass.

The results of the Shakespeare reel were mixed. I avoided backlash and was able to cast a decent distance. That was good. But the line loosened up on the spool more than I thought it should. It didn't seem to cause a problem, so in general, I was satisfied with the reel.

I didn't catch any bass with the baitcasting gear, but I was new at Lake Brittle. The problem wasn't with the rod and reel. I needed to find some fish and present them with the appropriate lure.

I eventually caught a small, but decent sized bass that was extremely fat with the spinning rod and reel. The man at the boat rental explained that the bass were fattening up for the winter.

I was ecstatic at catching a bass. I was envious of seeing others catching bass on television, but now I had done it myself.

Lessons

I'm satisfied with the medium priced gear that I bought. I don't know how durable the gear is, but I'm not fishing every weekend. (I wish I could.) The gear worked just fine in my limited use, and I would recommend the rods and reels that I bought.

I caught my bass and now I'm off for saltwater fishing.

The Old Webmaster and the Sea

As I live within a few hours of the Eastern shore, I was anxious to advance to saltwater fishing. Again, I did my research. And again, I reached the point where I needed to go and do, or at least go and buy. From my research I had found the internet site for the Old Inlet Bait & Tackle Shop, which is south of Rehoboth Beach, Delaware. I was very impressed with the site, joined the mailing list, and enjoyed reading the fishing reports.

In late October, I drove to the beach and found the Old Inlet Bait & Tackle Shop fairly easily on Route 1, south of Rehoboth Beach. Inside I met Clark Evans, who enthusiastically helped me to pick out some gear. He recommended a Shakespeare Ugly Stik 8' rod, action medium, rated 10-25 lb., that listed for $69.99. Mr. Evans explained that the 8' rod was fairly common for shore and beach fishing.

Mr. Evans also recommended a Quantum Iron IR5F saltwater spinning reel for $52.00, which was on sale. I was reluctant to buy Quantum, but since this was a spinning reel that I felt confident that I could use, I didn't hold a grudge. I haven't looked at the owner's manual. I'm afraid to.

To the Inlet

I took my new saltwater equipment to the nearby Indian River inlet where the shore has been fortified with concrete and rails, and from which one can cast into the inlet. The wind was strong and the water was rough. I didn't catch anything with my white plastic jig in twenty minutes, but I was able to work the reel easily enough.

On the Beach

The next day I was back at the Old Inlet Bait & Tackle Shop to get some bait for shore fishing. Mr. Evans recommended a surface plug that I had purchased on the previous day, and some frozen mullet. I also bought a mullet rig.

I went to a deserted beach in the Delaware Seashore State Park. Again the wind was strong and the surf was rough.

I didn't catch anything in 45 minutes. It turned out that I was not affixing the mullet to the rig properly. The rig should have only been used for chunks of mullet. But I was running out of time on the weekend, so to expedite matters I put the whole fish on the hook. Most of the mullet flew off before the rig hit the water. It wasn't a great surprise that I was skunked, but I had to get rid of the mullet.

A lesson was learned: pay close attention to the purpose of the rig you are using, and be sure to match the bait with the rig.

My main concern, however, was whether surf fishing is productive. I exchanged email with Clark Evans after the weekend and he assured me that surf fishing can be productive. It just wasn't a good day late in the season.

I vowed to be back for more.

Lessons

Obviously I don't have much to report on yet, but saltwater fishing has a strong appeal to me. Bluefish are reported to be excellent game fish. I'll add more as soon as possible.